Hawaii

Finally a part of the trip i'd been most looking forward to. We flew from Nadi with a quick stop off at Christmas island to Honolulu. Andy Irons was sat two seats in front of us. To anyone who doesnt know, simply put, he is a three times world surfing champion, pretty much Kelly Slaters biggest rival. He looked pretty beat up with some butterfly stiches under his eye, girlfriend was very attractive.

We aeeived in Honolulu and hired a car and headed straight for the North Shore, our beach shack was directly opposite the beach and just up the road from Wiamia Bay.

The first day we headed to Banzai Pipeline and chilled on the beach, the waves are dramatically smaller out here in the summer, a little dissapointing. On our second day we did however surf Sunset Beach and dont know the exact break but its just up the road from pipeline. We hired some boards from a guy who has taught Sunny Garcia and Mark Ochi and other famous surfers of which i cant remember. His name was Ryan Surat i think. The break was about 50m out and we are totally unfit at the mo so we didnt catch too many waves but they are great to ride as at this break they dont jeck up on you, its a very smooth ride, although its only about 3m deep water and if you dropped off the top you'd get worked on the rocks, rastrick had a few scratches, i got swept into the boneyard at one point named so for the shallow water but quickly paddled out.

The next day we headed to Waimea bay to jump of a massive rock and chill with some girls we met at our cabin. The rock was about 8m high and stung my feet when jumping in, got a good video of green and joe jumping in. Wiamea has had pretty much no waves since weve been here but in the winter they have a competition that only runs once the waves are above 25ft!!

On our final day we went to Pearl Harbour to check out the memorial floating on top of one of the sunken ships, its pretty wierd as you can still see the gun turrets poking out of the water. Finally we headed to Waikiki to see where all the city goers hang out. On our final day we just watched the crowds of surfers at pipeline as it was about 6ft and great conditions. Pretty much everyone one on the north shore surfs and thats all they do, the kids dont even seem to go to school. Everybody there is tanned and ripped, we felt very out of place with our english beer belly's. But at least me and rastrick are tanned!